Eating cheaply and well: learn to be an improv cook
Iâ€™ve waxed philosophical in recent articles, so I thought it was time to offer up something practical. Today Iâ€™m going to help you eat surprisingly well on just three to four dollars per day.
First, a few numbers to establish my grocery thrift credibility:
The USDA estimates monthly costs for food at different spending levels. Their December 2012 numbers for our family (adult male, adult female, teen female 25% time) at the cheapest level (the â€˜Thrifty Planâ€™) came to $422, or about $6.30 per person per day. Full food aid benefits for two persons is $367 per month, or about $6.10 each per day.
Those figures apply only to unprepared human food ingredients. Our â€˜groceryâ€™ budget, on the other hand, would more accurately be called a â€˜necessary consumablesâ€™ budget, as it includes everything that gets used up regularly, from lightbulbs to pet food to toilet paper. Nearly all of those things are purchased at the same stores at the same time as our food, so it doesnâ€™t make sense for me to keep track of human food separately. (One of the secrets to successful budgeting: avoid unnecessary complexity!)
So I canâ€™t compare numbers directly. But in December 2012, I spent just $251 on â€˜groceriesâ€™: food plus all those other things. My average across the last four months is $288. We eat nutritiously and happily for something under $4 per person per day. In fact, most days itâ€™s much less, as that amount covers the occasional splurge — for example, the pound and a half of king crab I served for Valentineâ€™s Day. (That one meal cost about $10 apiece, so you can see it throws off the average.)
Any time you make food at home, youâ€™re almost certainly saving money over eating at a restaurant or getting takeout. But thereâ€™s a lot of variation in how people shop and cook, and corresponding differences in the amount of savings.
There are lots of good frugal strategies that youâ€™ve probably heard of before — keeping a stocked pantry and freezer, shopping the sales, buying in bulk and so on. All of those things help. But if you really want to lower your grocery costs, I believe the single most important thing you can learn is how to improvise when cooking.
This one skill gives you the following benefits:
- Nearly zero food waste, because you know how to incorporate perishable odds and ends into a new meal, saving them from the compost heap,
- Exciting culinary diversity, because you can adapt almost any recipe or cuisine on the fly, and
- Rock-bottom budget, because you can buy only whatâ€™s on sale and make a tasty meal from nearly any combination of ingredients.
No one taught me how to cook when I was growing up, so as a young adult living on my own for the first time, I approached everything methodically — even timidly — following recipes to the letter. It took me years and years of trial-and-error experimentation before I felt comfortable â€˜winging itâ€™.
Fortunately for those of you whoâ€™d like to learn improv cooking now, there are easier and faster ways. Iâ€™ve compiled a resource list that will help you get started or take your creativity to the next level.
After looking far and wide, I feel confident saying that these are the two best books available for improv cooking beginners. Meatless Meals is more accessible, with plenty of full-color photos and clear layout, and I encourage you to give it a try even if youâ€™re a meat-lover. The original How to Cook Without a Book could benefit from a similar redesign, but the content is broader and still very solid.
In both books Pam Anderson turns the idea of â€˜recipeâ€™ upside-down: the ingredient lists for the base recipes include things like â€˜a pound of meatâ€™, â€˜a pound of vegetablesâ€™, and â€˜herbs or spices of choiceâ€™; the â€˜recipeâ€™ part is more about technique than ingredients.
In How to Cook Without a Book, each base recipe is followed by suggestions for adaptation, and then by an assortment of traditional-looking recipes, all of which are variations on the original. HtCWaB: Meatless Meals breaks it down even further, giving you a â€˜master formulaâ€™ from which to work.
Here, for example, is the master formula for Grain and Legume Salads:
4 cups Cooked Grains and/or Legumes (pick 1 or 2)
3 cups Raw and/or Cooked Vegetables (pick 1 or 2 cooked and 2 or 3 raw)
½ cup Extras (pick 1 or 2; optional)
¼ medium onion or 4 scallions, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)
¼ cup chopped fresh herbs (parsley, cilantro, basil, mint, or a mix)
⅓ cup Dressing (pick 1) or ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper, and 2 tablespoons vinegar
Then you have a widely varied list of options for each category — in the above recipe, itâ€™s Grains, Legumes, Raw Vegetables, Cooked Vegetables, Optional Extras, and Dressings. Each possible ingredient includes its own prep instructions. Finally, she follows up with a small assortment of her favorite combinations, for inspiration or help with flavor pairings.
Andersonâ€™s books are geared toward flavorful, varied food that is relatively quick and easy. Sheâ€™s very sensitive to the â€˜weeknight dinner problemâ€™ for cooks with day jobs, and while she does draw from different cuisines, thereâ€™s a kind of â€˜Americanâ€™ feel to the whole thing, in that ingredients tend to be basic to the average American kitchen/grocery store. She also explains techniques carefully so that even the newest of cooks wonâ€™t feel intimidated.
The Improvisational Cook
By contrast, Sally Schneiderâ€™s books take a more gourmet approach. Pulling a couple of recipes at random, I see â€˜Lentils with Caramelized Radicchio and Pancetta Cracklingsâ€™, and â€˜Leek â€œNoodlesâ€ with Creme Fraiche and Hazelnut Oilâ€™.
Sally presents a single precise recipe, follows with a section titled â€˜Understandingâ€™ that gives some context and guidance, and ends with several â€˜Improvisationsâ€™, some of which may veer widely from the original — so that â€˜Chicken with Root Vegetables in Fragrant Lemongrass Brothâ€™ becomes, in turn, â€˜Rabbit Rillettesâ€™ (!) and â€˜Guinea Hen with Bacon and Madeiraâ€™.
This is not a book that is going to help you figure out what to do in forty-five minutes with the leftover chicken, half a cabbage and three carrots in your fridge. Her comments are conversational, sometimes even rambling — better for reading in your spare time than when you are looking for a particular solution. Where Anderson breaks down the process of improv cooking into clear steps, Schneider is more about teaching by numerous examples, leaving the task of synthesis to the reader. But it is full of fascinating techniques and ideas for the aspiring gourmet cook.
This was my introduction to Pam Andersonâ€™s â€˜pick one from column A, two from column Bâ€™ method — I stumbled across this page a couple of years ago and have used this formula many times with success.
This is one of my next projects. Jak loves granola, but premade is too expensive.
I listen to Lynne Rossetto Kasperâ€™s Splendid Table nearly every week, and I never stop being amazed at the breadth of her knowledge. Here she offers a soup formula with explanations about which techniques and combinations produce which effects — the sort of gems that it can take hundreds of experiments to discover on oneâ€™s own.
Lynne gives an example of â€˜how do I use up these vegetablesâ€™ improv cooking.
Jak adores sweet bread puddings, so when I heard Lynne mention this one on a show I had to chase down the web page. Havenâ€™t tried it yet, but I will! Good for using up stale bread and bits of vegetables, cheeses, and leftover meats.
Another guide to soups, this one from Sally Schneider, has the same gourmet touches as her books but in a format more like Pam Andersonâ€™s.
Are you an improv cook? Do you have any resources or tips to share? Leave a comment below!